Services and Pricing

A: Look, portable systems have their pros. They’re easy to use, they power the basics, and they don’t make your brain hurt. But if you’ve ever used these products, you know it just doesn’t cut it for long-term travelling. Setting up and tearing down 4+ portable panels (even in the rain) just to charge your power station from zero? Spending $1600 for a 200ah power station that can’t handle motorized A/C loads? Please guys, solar does not have to be this hard! Let’s look at the benefits to a permanently-mounted system. 200ah of battery plus a 1000W inverter, MPPT and wiring? Forget $1600, lets try $800. I’m not kidding! - you can half the price of a larger movable system by just sourcing independent parts and mounting them permanently. Plus, now you can charge your batteries while driving, your panels will last 25 years instead of 2-5, and the most you have to do is wipe off your solar panels and maybe tighten a few bolts every year. And let’s not forget about scalability or resale value of your rig either. So if it can be done, its almost always worth it! Got some deeper questions on permanent systems? Check out the FAQs by clicking the button below.

A: No worries, just carry a single fold-up panel, and you can plug it in to get the best of both worlds.

A: Because its a real, but curable curse. Rigid panels primarily fail mobile users for two reasons. The solar panel wasn’t mounted securely enough for rough terrain, or the frame itself wasn’t strong enough out of the factory. Our fix? Solar Armor™, used to fortify those panel frames before using one of our rugged mounting methods.

A: portable power stations are convenient, but that doesn’t mean permanent batteries can’t be. With a 20A battery charger, shore mount power plug, and extension cord, you can charge your batteries with any 120V plug, whether it be your home exterior outlet, a campsite electric hookup, or even that plug built into your truck bed!

A: We only offer the best of the best to guarantee safety and quality. If its not safe or reliable, we’re not gonna use it. Zinc hardware, cheap zipties, and non-marine grade wire degrade rapidly when exposed to the elements. Even when used inside, zinc hardware will begin to rust from condensation, and cheap wire insulation will crack or fail, especially if exposed to UV rays for lengthy periods. Marine-grade tinned copper resists degradation well without increasing impedance, and UV-rated solar wire is a must for panel wiring. Wago connectors are convenient, but a solid crimp with solder and heat shrink is always more reliable, especially in high-ampacity settings. Lead-Acid batteries can spill, and their fumes require constant ventilation for safety. LiFePO4 (Lithium-Iron-Phosphate) battery chemistries do cost more, but they don’t require any ventilation, they don’t spill, and they are safer and more stable than the Lithium-Polymer alternatives they use in electronics and even Teslas. We know what fails, but if you have specific material questions, let us know! We’ll let you know our thoughts.